We met up with them for a short conversation at our office before they headed to the gym to train. The Climbing World Championships 2019 came to an end at Hachioji in Japan earlier this week with the Combined World Championship, the intense one-day mix of Lead, Boulder and Speed for the best 8 won by Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki. Searching for something new, he decided to take up climbing after watching his older brother – and his younger sibling also soon followed suit. Highs and Lows: 2019 Climbing World Championships—Combined. The grip design and placement is standard on walls around the world to ensure uniformity and comparable times on any standard wall. Meichi Narasaki and Kokoro Fujii also finished in the top 10 in the men’s combined event at the 2019 Climbing World Championships, as did Ai Mori and Futaba Ito in the women’s competition, underlining Japan’s strength in climbing. Tomoa is a fan of Friction Labs chalk, a high end chalk that markets itself as scientifically better for climbing, with better grip and coverage. Of the three disciplines, bouldering is arguably his strongest while speed climbing is the where he tends to finish lower down the field. “At the same time, they were naturally cautious as it’s not exactly a reliable profession. “In between competitions, we play games together, go out for dinner, that kind of thing. Especially for fans of Tomoa Narasaki. Of course, it would be amazing to go up against my brother on the biggest stage as we often train together and enjoy the rivalry. “I finished outside the medals at the previous championship in Austria after a false start in speed climbing, so I was determined to make up for that in Japan,” says Narasaki. He followed that up by taking home the gold in the same discipline at the Climbing World Championships in Paris where he finished ahead of the Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra, a man described as the “leading climber of his generation.”. I felt at that point I was capable of winning in the future,” he says. “The challenge is tough because the three disciplines require different skill sets, but that’s something I enjoy,” he tells TW. Speed: The speed climbing competition is simply a race up a 15m wall. This is an interesting video which analyzes Tomoa climbing style on speed vs efficiency. Your email address will not be published. By this, I don’t mean the Olympic sport, where athletes race up a 20-meter wall via a pre-set route. Preparing for the Games this summer, the Japanese athlete is trying to devote an equal amount of time to each category and is happy with the way preparations are going. , Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup, "Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics", "Tomoa Narasaki earns second overall World Cup bouldering title", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tomoa_Narasaki&oldid=982262592, Articles using Template:Medal with Winner, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 7 October 2020, at 02:29. Meet the 2020 Athletes: World Champion Climber Tomoa Narasaki Has His Sights Set on Gold H e’s the number-one ranked male climber on the planet, the current world champion and world cup holder in the combined event (speed climbing, bouldering and lead). They are a very stiff, downturned, and aggressive shoe for steep and challenging bouldering and sport climbing. Two years later, he decided to turn pro. 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Schubert, with one top, placed third. During February, Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki, two Bouldering greats from Japan, are in Innsbruck to train and prepare for the World Championships. Close. Miho Nonaka Tomoa Narasaki (楢崎 智亜 Narasaki Tomoa, born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer. Find events calendar, all past and future results, rankings, IFSC news, photos, videos. “There’s a lot of work involved. At the moment, I’m training five days a week. I usually start at around 10 or 11 in the morning with some speed exercises. You can get … Enjoying the sense of freedom climbing gave him, he steadily improved and at 16 represented Japan at the World Youth Championships, finishing fourth in the lead event. KAPLINA SETS NEW SPEED WORLD RECORD IN MOSCOW .  In 2016, he won both the Bouldering World Championship and the Bouldering World Cup and in 2019 he won the Bouldering World Cup. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Wujiang World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed. He actually managed two tops and four bonus zones. “My parents were supportive,” recalls Narasaki. So, in Tokyo this summer, anything less than a top-place finish for 23-year-old Tomoa Narasaki would be seen as a disappointment. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Tomoa Narasaki (楢崎 智亜 Narasaki Tomoa, born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer. The decision to combine the three main disciplines of lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering has been criticized by various competitors such as American climber Lynn Hill who said it was like “asking a middle-distance runner to compete in the sprint.”, “The challenge is tough because the three disciplines require different skill sets, but that’s something I enjoy”, Narasaki, however, sees it as an exciting prospect. Narasaki, who started sport climbing when he was in elementary school, wants to improve upon his national record of 6.159 seconds on the speed wall to increase his lead over his rivals. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Vail World Cup 2019—Bouldering . Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) Blazes Through the Only Two Tops of the Night, at the 2019 World Climbing Championships in Hachioji. Er erreichte den zweiten Platz hinter dem Japaner Tomoa Narasaki. Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. also finished in the top 10 in the men’s combined event at the 2019 Climbing World Championships, as did Ai Mori and Futaba Ito in the women’s competition, underlining Japan’s strength in climbing. r/climbing. 1.0k. Known for her mobility, Akiyo Noguchi is a four-time Climbing World Cup winner who qualified for the Olympics after finishing as runner-up at the 2019 Climbing World Championships. The first World Championships medals in this format will be awarded at the Olympiaworld in Innsbruck Tyrol during the IFSC Climbing World Championships. Born in Utsunomiya, 50 kilometres north of Tokyo, Narasaki got a lucky break right at the start of his climbing career when - aged 10 - he was taken under the wing of legendary Japanese climber Sachi Amma. With the Games just months away, is the man nicknamed “Ninja” starting to feel the pressure? Using his patented explosive style, Tomoa has propelled himself to 17 world-cup boulder medals in the past 4 years and three bouldering world championships. It made me stiff going into competitions. Kai Harada He’s the number-one ranked male climber on the planet, the current world champion and world cup holder in the combined event (speed climbing, bouldering and lead). “Climbing in this country is so strong right now,” opines Narasaki. The speed portion of the weekend was marked by some surprising early exits. The 2016 overall world champion Narasaki … A rising star in sport climbing, Miho Nonaka won her first bouldering title at the Climbing World Cup in 2018.